Handbook and Formulations on Herbal Cosmetics Technology, formulae and Process.

Description

COSMETICS PROCESSES & FORMULATIONS HAND BOOK

EQUIPMENT USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF COSMETICS

Introduction
Manufacture of Bulk Product
Unit Manufacture
The Manufacturing of Bulk
Cosmetic Products
Mixing
Solid Solid Mixing
Manufacture of Pigmented Powder Products
Hammer Mill
Batch Colour Correction
Vertical vortex mixer
Plough Shear
Mixing Processes Involving Fluids
General Principles of Fluid Mixing
Mixing Equipment for Fluids
Paddle mixers
Turbines
Propeller Mixers
Mixing in Non Newtonian Liquids of Low or Medium Viscosity
Impeller Types and Mixers for High Viscosity Fluids
High Shear Mixers and Dispersion Equipment
Solid Liquid Mixing
Suspension of Solids in agitated Tanks
Complete Suspension
Homogeneous Suspension
Liquid Liquid Mixing
Miscible Liquids
Immiscible Liquids
The emulsification Process
Orientation of Phases
Addition of Surfactant
Batch Processing Equipment
Continuous Processing
Emulsion Temperature
Storage of Cosmetic Powders

RAW MATERIALS USED IN COSMETICS

Introduction
Water
Surfactants
Shampoo and Bath Additives
Thickeners
Foam Stabilisers
Pearlescent agents
Conditioning Agents
Emolients
Sequestering Agents
Oil Components
Mineral Oil
Natural Oils
Triglycerides
Jojoba oil
Synthetic Oils
Isopropyl Esters
Ethythexyl Esters
Oleic Acid Esters
Caprylic/Capric Acid Esters
N-Butyl Stearate
Isocetyl Stearate
Di-Isopropyl Adipate
Pentaerythritol Tetraisostearate
Waxes
Natural Waxes
Synthetic Waxes
Silicone Oils
Cream Bases
Fatty Alcohols
Polyol Esters
Fatty Acids
Oil in Water (O/W) Emulsifiers
Anionic O/W Emulsifiers
Cationic O/W Emulsifiers
Non-Ionic O/W Emulsifiers
O/W Stabilisers
Water in oil (W/O) Emulsifiers
Single W/O Emulsifiers
Lanolin Derivatives
Absorption Bases
W/O Stabilisers
Humectants
Aerosol Propellants
Hydrocarbons
Dimethyl ether
Antioxidants
Selection of Antioxidant
Colours
Natural Colours
Cochineal
Saffron
Chlorophyll
Inorganic Colours
Perfumes
Plant Oil
Animal Secretion
Chemical Substances

PACKAGING OF COSMETICS PRODUCTS

Introduction
Principles of Packaging
Marketing and Packaging
Technology and Components
Plastics
Materials
Laminates
Glass
Paper and Board
Printing and Decoration
Package Development and Design
Technical Aspects of Design
Closures
Package Testing and Compatibility
Testing

SKIN CREAMS, ASTRINGENTS AND SKIN TONICS

Introduction
Age and Skin
Cosmetics and Skin
Skin Creams
Classification of Skin Creams
Cleansing Creams
Procedure
Night and massage Creams
Vitamins in Skin Creams
Oil Phase Constituents
Moisturising, Vanishing and Foundation Creams
Moisturisers
Occlusion
Humectants
Moisturisation
Emollients
Vanishing and Foundation Creams
Pigmented Foundation Creams
Hand Creams and Hand and body Creams
All purpose creams
Protective Creams and Hand Cleansers
Barrier Materials Protective Creams and Gets
Formulae creams and lotions
Non aqueous barrier products
Testing of protective preparation
Hand Cleansers
Astringents and skin tonics
Types of Astringent
Metal Salt Astringents
Organic Acids
Alcohols
Auxilliary Additives
Astringent Products
Aqueous and Aqueous Alcoholic Lotions
Toners
Skin Tonics
Astringent Emulsions

SKIN PRODUCTS FOR BABIES AND YOUTH

Introduction
Functional Requirements of Baby Products
Safety of Baby Products
Example Formulations

BATH PRODUCTS PREPARATIONS

Introduction
Foam Baths
Formulation of Foam Baths
Foaming Agents
Emollients
Perfum-s
Viscosity Controllers
Colour
Preservatives
Opacitying Agents
Types of Product
Liquids
Gels
Dry bubble baths
Product Assessment
Bath Salts
Ingredients and Formulation Salts
Fragrance
Colour
Bath Cubes and Tablets
Bath Oils
Classification of Bath Oil
Floating or Spreading Oils
Dispersible or Blooming Oils
Soluble Oils
Foaming Oils
After Bath Products
Body or Dusting Powders
After bath Emollients

DECODORANTS AND ANTIPERSPIRANTS PREPARATIONS

Introduction
Mechanism of Deodorants and Deodorant Ingredients
Evaluation of Antiperspirants
Efficacy of Antiperspirants
Product Formulation Antiperspirants
Aerosols
Antiperspirant sticks
Antiperspirant Creams
Procedure
Roll on Antiperspirants
Product Formulation Deodorants
Deodorant Soaps
Deodorant Sticks
Aerosol Deodorants

DEPILATIORIES

Introduction
Epilation
Chemical Depilation
Sulphides
Stannites
Substituted Mercaptans
Thioglycollates
Procedure
Other Thio Compounds
Enzymes
Facial Depilatories for Black Skin
Evaluation of Depilatory Efficacy

PREPARATIONS OF FOOT COSMETICS

Introduction
Foot Malodours and Foot Allments
Foot Intection, Care & Hygiene
Bathing the Feet
Foot Powders
Foot Sprays
Foot Creams
Corn and Callus Preparations
Chiblain Preparations
Athlete’s Foot Preparations
Other Developments

SHAVING PREPARATIONS

Introduction
Wet Shaving Preparations
Lather Shaving Cream
Criteria for a Good Lather
Shaving Cream
Formulation
Lather Shaving Stick
Aerosol Shaving Foams
Guidance on Formulation
Brushless or Non Lathering Cream
Brushes Shaving Stick
Dry Shaving Preparations
After Shave Preparations
After Shave Lotion
After Shave Gel
After Shave Cream and Balm
Procedure

SUNSCREEN, SUNTAN AND ANTI-SUNBURN PRODUCTS

Introduction
Sunlight and the Human Body
Tanning
Beneficial and Adverse
Effects of Sunlight
Beneficial Effects
Adverse Effects of Sunlight
Sunburn
Chronic Exposure
Sunscreens and Suntan Preparations
Sunscreen Agents
Evaluation of Sunscreen Preparations
Water Resistance and PerspirationResistance of Sunscreens
Efficacy of Sunscreens
Formulation of Sunscreens
Heavy Sunscreens
Palliative Preparations
Artificial Suntan Preparations
Stains
Systemic Materials

FACE POWDERS AND MAKE UP

Introduction
Covering Power
Absorbency
Slip, Adhesion and Bloom
Slip
TalcAdhesion
Powdered Silica and Silicates
Bloom
Powdered Silk
Colour
Perfume
Formulation
Manufacture
Compact Powder
Procedure
Cake Make up
Application of Cake Make up
Make up Cream
Liquid Powder
Liquid Make up
Stick Make up
Face Packs and Masks
Wax based Systems
Rubber based Systems
Vinyl based Systems
Hydrocolloid based Systems
Earth based Systems (Argiliaceous Masks)
Anti-Wrinkle Preparation

COLOURED MAKE UP PREPARATIONS

Lipstick
Characteristics Required in a Lipstick
Ingredients of Lipsticks
Colour
Staining Dyes
Eosin
Non-eosin Staining Dyes
Pigments
Titanium dioxide
Lakes
Base
Dyestuff Solvents
Castor Oil
Fatty Alcohols
Esters
Glycols
Polyethylene Glycols (Carbowaxes)
Candelilia
Amorphous Hydrocarbon Waxes
Petroleum based waxes
Beeswax
Landolin and lanolin absorption bases
Petroleum jelly
Lecithin
Silicone waxes
Perfumes
Manufacture of Lipsticks
Preparation and Blending
Moulding
Transparent Lipsticks
Lip Salves
Liquid Lipsticks
Rouge
Dry Rouge (Compact Rouge)
Compact Rouge Formulation
Wask based Rouge
Cream Rouge
Non Aqueous Cream Rouge
Emulsions
Liquid Rouge
Eye Make up
Mascara (Eyelash Cosmetic)
Characteristics of Mascara
Cake (Block) Mascara
Cream Mascara
Procedure
Melt and mix
Eyeshadow
Cream Eyeshadow
Stick Eyeshadow
Pressed Powder Eyeshadow
Liquid Eyeshadows
Eyeliner
Eyebrow Pencils

SHAMPOOS

Introduction
Detergency
Evaluation of Detergents as Shampoo Bases
Raw Materials for Shampoos
Additives
Conditioning Agents
Viscosity Modifiers
Opacifying and Clarifying Agents
Sequestering Agents
Preservatives
Perfumes
Formulation
Clear Liquid Shampoos
Liquid Cream or Lotion Shampoos
Cream Shampoos
Jelly shampoos
Powder Shampoos
Aerosol Shampoos
Some Special Shampoos
Anti Dandruff Shampoos
Conditioning Shampoos
Manufacture of Shampoos
Manufacture of Liquid/Cream Shampoos

NAIL AND MANICURE PRODUCTS

Introduction
Cuticle Remover
Nail Bleach
Nail Cream
Nail Strengthener
Nail White
Nail Polish
Nail Lacqu (Nail Varnish)
Ingredients of Nail Lacquer
Film Formers
Resins
Plasticisers
Solvents
Diluents
Colours
Pearlescent (Nacreous) Pigments
Suspension
Formulation
Manufacture of Nail Lacquer
Base Coats and Top Coats
Enamel Remover
Cream Nail Enamel Removers
Nail Drier
Plastic Fingernails and Elongators
Nail Mending Compositions

HAIR SETTING LOTIONS AND CONDITIONERS

Introduction
Hair Setting
Formulation
Wave Sets
Hair Rinses
Hair Grooming Preparations
Formulation
Brilliantnes
Alcoholic Solutions
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
Method of Preparation
Water-in-oil Emulsions
Manufacture of Hair Grooming preparations
Brillantines
Alcoholic Solutions
Permanent Hair Waving Preparations and Hair Straighteners
Heat Waving Preparations
General
Formulation
Cold Waving Preparations
General
Formulation
Hair Tonics and Conditioners
Formulation
Medicated Products
Conditioners
Anti Seborrhic Preparations
Manufacture of Hair Tonics & Conditioners

HAIR COLOURANTS

Introduction
Hair Colouring Systems
Characteristics of an Ideal Hair Colourant
The Process of Hair Colouring
Permanent Colours (Oxidation)
Temporary Hair Dyes
Dyestuffs
Types of Commercial Temporary Product and their Formulation
Semi Permanent Colourants
Dystuffs
Various Dyes
Reactive Dyes
Metallised Dyes
Azo Dyes Obtained by Coupling on the Hair
Commercial Semi Permanent Products and Their Formulation
Permanent Hair Dyes
Bases
Couplers or Moditiers
Formation of Colours in the Hair
Formulation of Permanent Hair Dyes
Other Dyes For Hair
Vegetable Hair Dyes
Henna
Henna Reng
Chamomile
Metallic Hair Dyes
Lead Dyes
Other Metallic Dyes
Hair Dye Removers
Bleaching and Lightening

ORAL HYGIENE PREPARATIONS

Introduction
The Human Dentition and its Environment
Teeth and Associated Oral Structures
Saliva and Crevicular Fluid
Oral Accretions and Conditions
Dental Pellicle
Dental Plaque
Dental Calculus (Tartar)
Periodontal Diseases
Dental Stain
Oral Malodour
Oral Care Products
Product Categories
Tooth Brush
Toothpaste
Oral Hygiene Preparations
Abrasives

DENTIFRICES (TOOTH PASTE & TOOTH POWDERS)

Introduction
Basic Requirements of A Dentifrice
Toothpastes
Ingredients
Abrasives
Calcium Carbonate
Calcium Phosphates
Dicalcium Phosphate Dihydrate
Anhydrous Dicalcium Phosphate (DCP)
Tricalcium Phosphate
Calcium Pyrophosphate
Insoluble Sodium Metaphosphate
Other Abrasives
Detergents
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate
Sodium N-lauryl Sarcosinate
Other Detergents
Humectants
Gelling agents
Gum Tragacanth
Cellulose Derivatives
Carboxymethyl Cellulose
Cellulose Ethers
Miscellaneous gelling Agents
Flavours
Other Ingredients
Preservatives
Corrosion Inhibitors
Bleaches
Formulation of Toothpasters
Manufacture of Toothpastes
Tooth Powders
Manufacture of Tooth Powders
Solid Dentitrice
Performance Tests
Abrasive Action
Denture Cleansers

PERMANENT WAVING, HAIR STRENGTHENERS AND STRAIGHTENERS

Introduction
How Cold Waving Preparations Work
Waving Lotions
Neutralisers
How Heat and Tepid Waving Preparations Work
Permanent Wave Pretreatments
Health and Safety
Hair Strengthening Praparations
Hair Straighteners
Relaxer
Neutraliser

MOUTHWASHES

Introduction
Choice of Antibacterial Agent
Chlorinated Phenols
Soap Based Mouthwashes
Thymol (Isopropyl Metacresol)
Hydrogen Peroxide
Hexachlorophene
Quaternatries
Other Mouthwash Components
Flavouring of Mouthwashes
Aerosol Mouth Fresheners

HERBAL COSMETICS

Healing with Herbs
Herbal or Plant Materials
Almond
Apricot
Avocado
Azadirachta (Neem)
Cabbage
Camomille
Carrots
Comfrey
Common Basil (Tulsi)
Cornflower
Cucumber
Dandelion
E.Alba (Bhringaraja)
Elderflower
Eucalytus
Fennel
Funegreek
Garlic
Geranium
Henna
Indian Gooseberry (Amla)
Indian Nard (Jatamansi)
Jasmine
Lady’s Mantie
Lavender
Lemon
Lime
Marigold
Marsh Mallow
Nutmeg
Orange Biossom
Parsley
Peach
Rose
Rosemary
Safflower
Sage
Sandal
S.Racemosa (Lodhra)
Thyme
Turmeric
Wheatgerm
Whitch Hazel
How to use herbs
Infusions
Decoctions
Extracts and Tinctures
Flower Waters
Oil Soluble Extracts
Herbal Cosmetics for the skin
Equipment Used for Herbal Preparations
Cleansing Creams
Process of Manufacture
Rose Water Cleansing Cream
Cucumber Cleansing Cream
Violet Cleansing Cream
Masks
Milk Mask
Cleansing Mask
Procedure
Procedure
Butter Milk Mask
Meat Mask
Carrot and Tumip Mask
Oatmeal Mask
Potato Mask
Paw Paw Mask
Luxurious Cleansing Mask
Bath Salts
Bath oil
Procedure
Massage Preparations
Massage Paste
Massage Oil
Body Lotions
Blue Ratin Body Lotion
Procedure
Lavender Body Lotion
Almond Body Lotion
Moistursing Creams
Almond Oil Moistursing Cream
Herb Cream(Comfrey Cream)
Sun flower Cream
Jasmine Moisturising Cream
Nourishing Creams
Elderflower Cream
Wheat Germ Cream
Honey Cream
Vitamin Crean
Mixed Vegetable Cream
Water in -Oil Emulsions
Formulations (Emulsified Hair Grooming Preparation)
Herbal Cosmetic for the hair
Herbal hair Conditioners
Herbal hair Oil
Herbal Henna
Herbal Hair Tonic
Herbal Henna Shamoo (for normal to oily hair)
Herbal Amla Shampoo (for normal to dry hair)
Hair Treatment Cream
Herbal Mint/Hair gloss Conditioner
Herbal hair Rinse
Herbal Hair Oils (Medicated)
Base Formulation for Herbal hair Oil
Herbal Shampoos
Hair Dye
Henna
Applications of Henna
Henna Rinse
Henna Pack
Henna Mixtures
Camomile
Camomile Pack
Camomile Shampoo
Camomile henna Mixtures
Formulations for Camomile Henna
Mixture
Henna Reng Dye
Fresh Soap Wort Shampoo
Procedure
Dried Soap Wort
Nettle Rinse and Conditioner
Lotion for Unruly Hair
Horsetail Hair Rinse and Tonic
Tonic Shampoo
Herb shampoo

SKIN LIGHTENERS OR BLEACHES

Introduction
Skin Lightening Agents and Formulations
Opaque Covering Agents
Oxidising Agents
Mercury Compounds
Hydroquinone
Ascorbic Acid and its Derivatives
The Natural Way

QUALITY CONTROL OF COSMETICS

Introduction
The Analytical Laborator Its Significance for Raw Materials/Active Ingredients and the Finished Preparation
The Microbiological Laboratory Assurance of Purity and Hygiene
Raw Material Inspection
Inspection of the Finished Product
Inspection of Containers and Packaging Materials
Skip Lot Inspection
Source Inspection
Vendor Certification
Computer Assisted Delivery Testing
In-Process Control
Integrated Inspection Processes in the Manufacture of the Finished Product
Finished Goods Control
Good Laboratory Practice (GLP) and Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP)
Environmental Protection
Quality Promotion
Works Proposal System

TESTING OF COSMETICS

Introduction
Spectroscopy in Cosmetic Analysis
Ultraviolet and Visible Spectroscopy
Constituents that Absorb in the Ultra Violet
Infrared Spectroscopy
Sample Preparation
Characteristic Absorbances
Structural Elucidation
Fluorometry
Mass Spectrometry
Nuclear Magnetic Resonance
Chromatographic Techniques in Cosmetic Analysis
Adsorption Column Chromatography
Column Preparation, Sample Application and Elution
Qualitative and Quantitative Analysis
Variables and Efficiency
Application to Cosmetic Analysis
Partition Column Chromatography
Solid Support
Selection of the Liquid Phase
Preparation of Column
Application to Cosmetic Analysis
Ion Exchange Chromatography
Column Preparation, Sample Addition and Elution
Applications to Cosmetic Analysis
Thin Layer Chromatography
General Techniques
Variables
Application to Cosmetic Analysis
High Pressure Liquid Chromatography
Gas Chromatography in Cosmetic Analysis
Gas Liquid Chromatography
Preparation of Packed Columns
Selection and Preparation of Tubing
Preparation of Solid Support
Packing the Column
Column Conditioning
Sample Preparation
Detectors
Identification
Determination
Analysis of Creams and Lotions
General Analysis
Net contents
Description of Product
Type of Emulsion
pH of Emulsion
Ashing at 600 Degree C
Examination of Ash
Non Volatile Matter at 105 Degree C
Infrared Examinations of Non Volatile Matter
Chloroform Extractable Matter
Material Not Extractable by Chloroform from Acid Aqueous Solution
Saponilication of Chloroform Extractable Matter
Examination of the Saponitiable Matter
Hydrocarbons and Alcohols in Unsaponifiable Matter
Examination of Alcohols in Unsaponifiable Matter
Composition of Chloroform Extractable Matter
Other Solvent Extraction Procedures
Adsorption Chromatography on silica Gel in Analysis of Isolated Fatty Materials
Determination of Water by Toluene Distillation
Examination of Aqueous Fraction from Toluene Distillation
Silicons in Creams
Determination of Esters of p-Hydroxybenzoic Acid
Emulsifiers
Aerosol Products
Analysis of Lipstics
General Analysis
Lakes and Fillers
Trichloroethylene Acetone Solubles
Chromalographic Analysis of Trichlorethylene Acetone Solubles
Gas Liquid Chromatographic (GIC) Determination of Castor Oil
Analysis of Shampoos
General Analysis
Net Contents
Description of Shampoo
Infrared Examination of Non-Volatile Matter
Test for Ammonia
Test for Basic Nitrogen compounds Including Ammonia
Lanolin and/or Sterols
General Analysis
Net Contents
Description of Nail Lacquer
Infrared Film Spectrum of the Nail Lacquer
Non-Volatile Matter at 105 Degree C
Determination of Non-Volatile Constituents
Separation of Nitrocellulose from Pigments
Tricresyl Phosphate in Nail Lacquers
Acrylonitrile Butadiene Polymer
Base Coats
Infrared Spectrophotometric Analysis
Description and Interpretation of Spectra
Infrared Spectra of Guanine and Tricresyl Phosphate
Gas Liquid Chromatography
Gas-Liquid Chromatographic Determination of Acetone, Xylene, and Methyl Ethyl Ketone
Analysis of Sunscreen Products
Infrared Examination of Non-Volatile Matter
Determination of Sunscreen
Analysis of Sunscreen Vehicle
Skin Sensitisation and Sensitivity Testing
Sensitivity Testing
Patch Test
Open Patch Test
Prophetic Patch Test
Repeated Insult Test
Photopatch Test
Test for Sensitising Potential
Provocative Patch Test
Use Test
Skin Testing with some Specific Cosmetics
Creams
Deodorants and Antipersphrants
Depilatories
Hair Dyes
Cold Wave Lotion
Lipsticks
Nail Polish
Testing of Hair & Bath Preparations for Eye limitation Properties
Efficacy Testing
Cell Turnover Testing
Instrumental Tests
Testing for Moisturisers
Test for Sebum
Test for Cleanser Mildness
Stability Testing

PLANT ECONOMICS ON HERBAL COSMETICS