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HAND BOOK OF GARMENTS MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY

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HAND BOOK OF GARMENTS MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY

FABRIC OBJECTIVE MEASUREMENT FOR GARMENT INDUSTRIES

Development of Instrument
Fabric Compression Tester
Fabric Dimensional Stability
Sitra Extension Meter
Sitra Fabric Roughness/Friction Tester
Bending Rigidity Tester
Materials and Methods
Results and Discussion
Repeatability of the Results
Fabric Objective Measurement
Comparison with Fast Instruments
Conclusion

COMMON PROBLEMS & SOLUTION IN ENZYME/GARMENT WASHING

Streaks
Backstaining
Rinsing/Clean-up Cucle
Tensile Strength/Fraying
Yellowing/Dullness
Variations
Hand Feel
Smell

SEWING EQUIPMENT

Measuring Equipment
Making Equipment
Cutting Equipment
Sewing Equipment
Dewing Machine
Care of Sewing Machine
Types of Hand Sewing Needles
Pressing Tools
General Tools

BODY MEASUREMENTS

Measurements for Blouses and Frocks (Ladies)
Measurements for Shirts Gents
Precautions Whife taking Measurements

SEWING TECHNIQUES

Basic Stitches
Hand Stitches
Basting Stitches
Even or Regular Basting
Uneven or Irregular Basting
Pin Basting
Diagonal Basting
Slip Basting
Dress Maker’s Basting
Machine Stitches
Permanen Stitches
Hand Stitches
Running Stitches
Back Stitches
Run and back Stitch
Half back Stitch
Top Sewing
Machine Stitches
Regulation Stitch
Zig-Zag Machine Stitch
Neatening Stitches
Overcasting
Loop Stitching
Whipping
Stitches for Edge Finishing
Hemming
Type of Fabric
Design of the Garment
Preparation of Edge for Hemming
Types of Hem Stitches
Types of Hem Sitches
Blined or Quick Him
Slip Hemming
Knotted Hemming
Pinched Hem
Catch Stitched Hem
Machined Hem
Machine Stitched Hem
Hemming Using Adjustable Hemmer
Seam
Types of Seams
Plain Seam
Top Stitched Plain Seam
Double Top Stitched Plain Seam
Lapped Seam
Flat Fell Seam
French Seam
Mock French Seam
French Seam with One Edge Hemmed
Slot Seam
Piped Seam
Welt Seam
Standards of a Good Seams
Seam Finishes
Pinked Seam finish
Edge Stitched Seam Finish
Turned and Edge Stitched Seam Finish
Overcast Seam Finish
Zig Zagged Seam Finish
Edge Double Stitched Seam Finish
Rolled Edge Seam Finish
Picot Edge Seam finish
Catch Stitched Edge Seam Finish
Bound Seam Finish
Fullness
Darts
Tucks
Straight Tucks
Plain Tucks
Pin Tucks
Corded Tucks
Dart Tucks
Shell Tucks
Crossed Tucks
Curved Tucks
Gathering and Shirring
Pleats
Side or Knife Pleat
Box Pleat
Inverted Pleat
Accordion Pleat
Kick Pleat
Plackets
Standards for Plackets
Neatness and Invisibility
Suitable Length and Convenience
Durable
Correct Lapping
Suitability
Classification of Plackets
Inconspicuous Plackets
Continuous Wrap or Bound Placket
Preparation of Continuous Wrap or Bound Plackets
To Make Placket in a Seam
Bound and Faced Placket
Zipper Packets
Zippers That Open at one Ends
Zippers that are closed at Both Ends
Zippers that open at both ends
Dress Zipper
Skirt Zipper
Separating Zipper
Neck Zipper
Trouser Zipper
Slip Cover Zipper
Regulation Zipper for Side Opening
Working of Regulation Zipper
Working of Slot Seam Zipper
Visible Zipper
Working of Visible Zipper
Lapped Zipper Application
Conspicuous Plackets
Tailored Placket or Shirt Sleeve Placket
Application on Sleeve
Bound Neck Opening
Material Required
Preparation of Placket
Centre Front Opening in a Blouse
Neckline Finishes
Types of Neckline Finishes
Facing
Blnding
Collars
Stay Stitching
Facing
Standards for facings
Types of facing
True Bias
Uses of True Bias
Cutting Bias Strips
Cutting a Bias Strip from an irregular scrap of fabric
Joining Bias Strips
Application of Bias facing
Application of Shaped or fitted facing
Decorative facing
Method of Application
Facing an inward curve with bias
Facing and Outward curve with Bias
Bindings
Standards for Bindings
Types of Bindings
Applying Single Bias Binding
Applying Double Bias Binding (French Binding)
Binding on Scalloped Edges
Bias Binding on Sharp Angles
Bias Binding on Outward and Inward Curves
Uses of Bias Facing and Bindings
Collars
Peterpan Collar
Adapting for Peterpan Collar
Bodice Blocks
Application of Peterpan collar to Neckline
Fastners
Type of Fasteners
Buttons, Button Holes and Loops
Marking Position for Buttons
Sewing Buttons with Holes
Sewing Shank Buttons
Making Link Buttons
Button Holes
Marking Position of Button Holes
Determining Length of Button Holes
Types of Button Holes
Worked Button Holes
Bound or Fabric Button Holes
Steps in construction
Loops
Thread Loops
Fabric Loop
Corded Loops
Corded Frogs
Press Buttons or Snap Fasteners
Steps in stitching
Hooks and Eyes
Eyelets and Cord
Viecro or Self Gripping Fasteners

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

Children’s Garments Jhabla
Drafting and cutting
Method of Stitching
Jangla
Drafting
Garment Construction
Pattern Lay Out
Cutting and Stitching
Determing Length of Button Holes
Types of Button Holes
Worked Button Holes
Bound or Fabric Button Holes
Steps in Construction
Loops
Thread Loops
Fabric Loop
Corded Loops
Corded Frogs
Press Buttons or Snap Fasteners
Steps in Stitching
Hooks and Eyes
Eyelets and Cord
Viecro or Self Gripping Fasteners

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

Children’s Garments Jhabla
Drafting and cutting
Method of Stitching
Jangla
Drafting
Garment Construction
Pattern Lay Out
Cutting and stitching
Sun Suit
Material Required
Drafting and Cutting
Drafting a Bib
Straps or Shoulder Straps
Pattern Lay out
Seam Allowances
Cutting and Stitching
Knicker
Bib
Straps
Baba Suit
Baba Shirt
Measurements Required
Material Required
Drafting
Sleeve
Collar
Pattern Layout Out for Shirt
Cutting and Stitching
Bloomer
Measurements Required
Material required
Drafting
Pattern Lay Out
Cutting and Stitching
Bloomer Style -II
Drafting
Pattern Lay out
Cutting and Stitching
Baba Suit Designs
Design-1
Design-II
Frocks
Child’s Bodice
Measurements Required
Drafting
Sleeve
Seam Allowances
A Line Frock
Material Required
Adaptation
Pattern Lay Out
Method of Stitching
Frock with Yoke
Drafting
Method of Stitching
Medium Waist Frock
Method of Stitching
Low Waist Frock
Method of Stiching
Bush Shirt
Measurements Required
Material Required
Drafting
Dart and Side Seam Shaping
Pattern Lay Out
Method or Stitching
Back Yoke
Collar
Sleeve
Ladies Garments
Measurements Required
Method of Drafting
Method of Stitching
Panel Petticoat
Measurements Required
Material Required
Drafting
Method of Stitching
Kameez
Measurement Required
Tight Kameez
Darts
Seam Allowances
Sleeve (Basic)
Slack Kameez
A-Line Kameez
Seam Allowances
Darts
Shaped Kameez
Method of Stitching
Churidar Pyjama
Material Required
Drafting and Cutting
Method of Stitching
Salwar
Measurement Required
Salwar with Band
Material Required
Drafting and cutting
Method of Stitching
Blouse
Measurement Required
Material Required
Drafting
Back Waist Dart
Front Darts
Sleeve
Pattern Lay out
Seam Allowances
Method of Stitching

PREPARATION OF FABRICS FOR GARMENT MAKING

Cotton, Rayon and Silk
Shrinking of Cotton
Lay Out with Lengthwise Fold
Lay Out on Crosswise Fold
Open Lay Out
Combination Lay Out
Laying on the Pattern
Cutting
Grain
Width of the Material

QUALITIES OF A WELL FINISHED GARMENT

PRINCIPLES OF DRESS DESIGNING

Harmony
Propartion
Balance
Rhythm
Emphasis

FIGURE IRREGULARITIES

Tall and Slout
Tall and Thin
Short and Plump
Short and Thin
Long and Thin Neck
Short and Heavy Neck
Sloping and Round Shoulder
Fitting Problems
Principles of Alternations
Methods of Alteration
Slash and Spread to Increase Pattern
Slash and Lap to Decrease Portion of Pattern
Fold a Pleat to Decrease Entire Width or Length of a Pattern Piece
Pattern Alteration on Bodice
To Lengthen Bodice
To Shorten Bodice
Problem
Solution
Pattern Alternations on Sleeve
Problem
Solution
Pattern Alterations on Neckline
Problem
Solution
Pattern Alterations on Skirt
Problem
Solution

RENOVATION OF GARMENTS

Mending
Daming
Straight Tear
A Hole in Woven Material
Diagonal Cut
Right Angled Tear
Machine Darning
Applying a Patch
Remodelling
Factors to be Considered while Renovating
Some Guidelines for Remodeling
Some Ideas for Remodeling

FABRIC EMBELLISHMENT

Goldstein’s Standards for a Good Decorative Design
Embroidery
Hand Embroidery
Stitches
Stem Stitch
Herringbone Stitch
Satin Stitch
Long and Short Stitch
Cross Stitch
Seed Stitch
Straight Stitch
Lazy and Daizy Stitch
Fly Stitch
Blanket Stitch
Feather Stitch
French Knot
Bullion Knot
Machine Embroidery
Free Hand Embroidery
Zig-Zag Stitch
Applique Work
Hand Made Applique
Machine Applique
Bias Tape Applique
Sequins and Zari Work
Sequins
Sequins Applied Singly
Sequins Applied in a Row
Zari Work

CARE OF CLOTHING

LAUNDRY EQUIPMENT

Storing Equipment
Steeping and Washing Equipment
Drying Equipment
Finishing Equipment
Selection and Care of Equipment

SPECIAL LAUNDRY TREATMENTS

Stain Removal
Animal Stains
Vegetable Stains
Grease Stains
Dye Stains
Mineral Stains
Other Stains
General Guidelines for Stain Removal
Some Formulations for Spotting
Method
Classification of Stains
Absorbed Stains
Built up Stains
Compound Stains
Bleaches
Oxidizing Bleaches
Reducing Bleaches
Oxidizing Bleaches
Hydrogen Peroxide Bleach
Action of Bleach
Preparation and use
Soudium Perborate Bleach
Preparation and use
Potassium Permanganate Bleach
Preparation and Use
Reducing Bleaches
Sodium Hydrosulphite
Action of Bleach
Preparation and Use
Precautions
Over Bleaching
Optical Brighteners

TECHNOLOGY OF LAUNDERING

General Steps in Laundering
Mending and Stain Removal
Sorting
Steeping
Cleaning or Washing
Rinsing
Bleaching
Drying
Stiffening
Finishing
Laundering Cotton and Linen
Mending and Stain Removal
Steeping
Boiling
Method of Boiling
Cleaning and Rinising
Bleaching
Stiffening
Blueing
Drying
Finishing
Laundering of Rayon
Mending and Stain Removal
Cleaning and Rinsing
Bleaching
Drying
Finishing
Special
Special Rayon Fabrics
Laundering of Silk
Stain Removal
Sorting
Steeping
Cleaning and Rinsing
Bleaching
Stiffening
Stiffening
Drying
Finishing
Laundering of Woollens
Felting
Absorbency and Effect of Sunlight
Biological Properties of Aging
Stain Removal
Steeping
Washing
Bleaching
Rinsing and Drying
Laundering of Systheticsa and Blends
Care of Special Articles
Zari
Embossed Fabrics
Flock Prints
Lacquer Prints
Sequins
Laces
Linen and Cotton Laces
Silk Laces
Faded Laces
Black Lace
Gold and Silver Laces
Carpets and Rugs
Shampooing a Carpet and Rug

DISINFECTION AND STORAGE OF CLOTHES

Disinfection
Boiling Method
Clothes that cannot be Boiled
Boiling
Exposure to Dry Heat
Exposure to Super Heated Steam
Other Methods
Precautions
Burning
Chemical Methods
Storage

SELECTION OF HOUSEHOLD LINEN

Classification of Household Linen
Bed Linen
Table Linen
Household Linen
Bed Linen
Mattresses
Bed Sheets
Wearing Quality
Quality
Durability
Count
Type of Finish
Size
Texture
Colour
Guarantee
Price
Labels
Care
Bed Spreads
Durability
Suitability
Texture
Size
Care
Blankets
Durability
Amount of nap Raised
Warmth
Binding and Edge Finishing
Attractiveness
Size
Care of Blankets
Pillow Covers
Comforters
Table Linen
Appearance
Suitability
Serviceability
Durability
Amount of Sizing
Extent of Bleaching
Shape and Size
Table Cover
Crash Table Cloth
Dice Pattern Table Cloth
Damask Table-Cloth
Lacy Table Cloth
Towels
Hand and Face Towels
Bath Towel
Kitchen Towels
Wash Cloth
Napkins
Household-Linen
Draperies
Texture
Design
Care of Draperies
Slip Covers
Door Mats
Carpets
Style
Colour
Design of Pattern
Texture
Durability
Suitability
Price
Mop Cloths
Floor Dusting Mops
Floor Washing Mops
Floor Polishing Mops
Dusters

SELECTION OF FAMILY CLOTHING

Factors Affecting Clothing Selection
Season
Income
Occasion
Changing Status of Women
Family Location and Occupation
Family Clothing
Clothing for the head of the family
Clothing for Business
Clothing for Community Activities
Clothing for Special Activities
Clothing for Leisure Time Activities
At Home Clothes
Clothing for The Mother
Business Wear
Casual or Sportswear
Clothing for Expectant Mother
Factors to be considered in Planning a Maternity Wardrobe
Physical Changes
Work and Activities
Climate, Season and Location
Cost
Style Features
Comfort
Children’s Clothing
Infant’s Clothing
Factors is Selecting Infant’s Wear
Clothing for Creeper
Clothing for Toddler
Clothing for Pre-School Child
Factors in Selecting Pre School Children’s Clothing
General Considerations
Allownace for Growth
To Provide Growth in Height
To Provide fr Growith in Girth or Width use
Self Help Features
Ease of Care
Clothing for School Going Children
Clothing for Pre Adolescents
Clothing for Adolescents
Clothing for Aged
Factors Selecting Clothing Suitable to Older people

PLANT ECONOMICS OF BRA AND PANY (LADIES UNDER GARMENTS)